In fulfilling the demand of another
American President considered high on the communicative ability
scale, the Berlin Wall has been torn down. Only a couple of short
remnants remain as tourist attractions. Haven't been there yet,
though.
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| view from our flat on a snowy morning |
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| Unter den Linden |
Berlin is a city of large spaces,
broad boulevards and streets and seemingly endlessly under
reconstruction. The Unter den Linden (right) is a mushrooming of
construction cranes and pedestrian bypasses. Decidedly not a
beautiful city, at least not in the dead of winter. But, then, beauty
really is in the eye of the beholder and my camera picked up little
pockets of it on a stroll around the Tiergarten in wintry Berlin the
other day—our first foray into a new city.
impressions of our first walk about Berlin:
impressions of our first walk about Berlin:
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| west entrance to the Tiergarten |
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| no idea what this is, but it looks like a piece of abstract art |
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| entrance to the Zoological Garden |
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| houseboats along the canal |
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| this gentlemen said he comes here every day to feed the birds |
Good Samaritans
But the Berliners can be wonderfully
helpful with confused-looking visitors like us trying to find our way
through a maze of U-Bahn connecting stations or trying to figure out
how the train ticketing machine works or even helping carry baggage
down the stairs of the station. Several times friendly folks appeared
seemingly out of the blue to ask if we needed assistance. One young
woman actually went out of her own way to lead us from one platform
to another. Germans have a reputation (I picked up this vibe in
Austria) for being cold and unfriendly, but I find it to be quite the
opposite here in Berlin.
Brandenburg Gate
Brandenburg Gate
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| Brandenburger Tor |
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| German Jewish poet/playwright Nelly Sachs |
Holocaust Memorials:
Roma and Sinti
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| Gypsy Holocaust Memorial |
Berlin seems to wear its past on its
sleeve. Here and there you can see references to a sense of the
collective shame for Germany's National Socialist past. There is a
monument to the gypsy victims of the extermination camps between the
Brandenburger Tor and the Bundestag consisting simply of a wall with
historical texts in German and English and a shallow circular pool
surrounded by flat stones of different shapes some of which are
inscribed with the names of the camps, some, ironically,
with melodious names like Treblinka, Bergen-Belsen, Ravensbrueck,
Sobibor. The monument
was dedicated on October 24, 2012 by Chancellor Angela Merkel. Jews
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| Jewish Holocaust Memorial |
Just
to the south of the Brandenburger Tor lies the monument to the Jewish
victims of the Holocaust inaugurated on May 10, 2005. The Jewish Holocaust Memorial... “is made up of 2,711 gray stone slabs
that bear no markings. The slabs undulate in a wave-like pattern.
Each is a five-sided monolith, individually unique in shape and size.
Some are only ankle high while others tower over visitors. 
The paths
that are shaped between the slabs undulate as well. The architect,
Peter Eisenman, hoped to create a feeling of groundlessness and
instability; a sense of disorientation. Most will agree that he
succeeded.”Gays
After going around the Jewish memorial we crossed the street and entered the Tiergarten on our way to pick up tickets at the Berlin Philharmonic. The park was beautiful with the fresh snow that had fallen all morning looking pristine and virginal. We passed a monument to Goethe when I noticed a lone stele similar to the more than 2,000 stelae in the Jewish Memorial. I didn't know what it was but I snapped a quick shot of it and then we continued on through the snowy paths to the concert hall. It turned out to be another holocaust memorial, this one for the homosexuals persecuted by the Nazis. Discrimination knows no bounds it seems.On the brighter side:
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| Goethe monument in the Tiergarten |
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| the abominable snowman? |
4 comments:
As you can imagine, being a Jewish woman, I have no desire to go into Germany or to even hear the language spoken. It is a 'knee jerk' reaction. I am interested, however, in your comments and photos, however. They reflect my inner thoughts, which are, no desire to go there…industrialized and bleak.
Interesting that this architect, Peter Eisenman, created this very moving project. Wonder if he is Jewish?
As far as your comment "melodious names like Treblinka, Bergen-Belsen, Ravensbrueck, Sobibor" these will never be melodious names to those who have studied the Holocaust or lost loved ones.
R
I don't know if Eisenman is Jewish--couldn't find any reference to his beliefs. He is American and from New Jersey--like Philip Roth--and like Roth, his work has been controversial.
Although I agree that we should not forget the past, I think that it is best to put it behind us. The Germans have been guilty of a great crime against humanity, but the Holocaust survivor who spoke at the dedication of the monument put it very well and generously.
"Holocaust survivor Sabina Wolanski was chosen to speak on behalf of the six million dead. In her speech she noted that although the Holocaust had taken everything she valued, it had also taught her that hatred and discrimination are doomed to fail. She also emphasised that the children of the perpetrators of the Holocaust are not responsible for the actions of their parents." [Wikipedia]
Sometimes we need to face the things we fear the most. What we despise in others is what we fear the most about ourselves.
Ms Wolanski's words ring true, Joe. No one should be taught hatred or discrimination. Children are not responsible for the actions of their parents. Instead, the actions of today should be watched. I am afraid that anti-semitism is alive and well. One would be foolish not to remember and be vigilant.
R
and you are right…'discrimination knows no bounds'.
Loved the two new photos, as well!
Take care of your piggie.
R
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