Noilly Prattle: March 2018

Wednesday, March 14, 2018

Europe Summer 2017: Russia 10 – tying up loose ends


PETROPAVLOVSK FORTRESS

     Peter the Great's first construction project in St. Petersburg was the Petropavlovsk Fortress (Peter and Paul Fortress) founded in 1703, which served as his first administrative  headquarters. The citadel is across the Neva River and can be seen from the Winter Palace. We took the metro for a short trip to the fortress before visiting the Zoological Museum that Robin wanted to see on his last day in St. Petersburg.

Petropavlovsk Fortress -Winter Palace on the left
ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM

woolly mammoth skeleton
mammoth skeleton with complete tusks
        The Zoological Museum has a unique exhibit, a complete woolly mammoth. Some 44,000-years old, the male mammoth was killed by falling off a cliff and preserved in permafrost in northeastern Russia. It is believed to be the only stuffed mammoth in existence. The mammoth is displayed in the position it was found in situ when it was dug up. The Zoological Museum has a large display of all kinds of skeletal displays and stuffed animals. It was fascinating and a lot of fun to see. 

stuffed baby mammoth found intact in permafrost
diorama of two tigers











diorama of an eagles nest





evolution









wolf family diorama







bros.




leopard diorama













44,000-year-old stuffed woolly mammoth found intact in permafrost 

THE GOOD SAMARITAN

        We had our own experience of unexpected help from a total stranger as in the biblical allegory. One day, we took the right bus (#27) in the wrong direction. A young man sitting next to me overheard us wondering if the bus would get to our stop at the Mariinsky Theater. It turned out he understood English and advised us to get off the bus, cross the Nevsky Prospect, and take another #27 bus in the opposite direction. He said although we could get to Mariinsky either way, it would be much shorter than going the long way around. He talked to the ticket lady and she very obligingly gave us our money back to get off the bus and take another one. The guy was very friendly and got off the bus with us to show us the way to the bus stop. I skeptically asked him if this was his stop. He smiled and said no, but the next one was his stop and close enough to walk to. We were naturally overwhelmed with gratitude and chatted and got acquainted while walking and waiting for our bus. It was a very nice experience with our own Good Samaritan and I silently wished him well as he receded down Nevsky into the dusky distance.  

FYODOR MIKHAILOVICH DOSTOEVSKY

The Idiot

warm cozy room in the "Idiot"
antique typewriter with
Cyrillic alphabet 
       As it was Robin's last day, we decided to have a farewell dinner at a restaurant near the apartment that we had grown fond of called “Idiot” after a character, Prince Mishkin, in Fyodor Dostoevsky's novel The Idiot. The restaurant is in the basement of the building and is decorated with memorabilia and antiques  imparting a warm and cozy 19th Century atmosphere.



















Crime and Punishment

Dostoevsky's tomb
Dostoevsky's apartment at the time he wrote
Crime and Punishment 
       Fyodor Dostoevsky is one of my favorite writers. One day we found his gravesite in a cemetery dedicated to writers, artists and musicians. It just so happened that our St. Petersburg apartment was practically around the corner from the neighborhood Dostoevsky lived in when he wrote his best known novel Crime and Punishment. Dostoevsky's apartment building and the police station where his main character, Raskolnikov, turned himself in for murdering an old pawnbroker woman can still be seen.


the police station today - OMOH Riot Police headquarters
CATS 

        There is an interesting story associated with cats in St. Petersburg. During the siege of Leningrad (a.k.a. St. Petersburg) by Germany in World War II rats were overrunning everything and eating up what little stores there were in the besieged city. The city government managed to sneak in several truckloads of cats to control the rats. The strategy was successful and, consequently, cats are highly revered in St. Petersburg. I had heard that there were small statues of cats here and there in innocuous places around the city. We found two of the them outside of the second stories of two buildings off Nevsky Prospect.

A LITTLE HISTORICAL CONTEXT 

Chinese tour group in the Kremlin, Moscow
       If you've been following international trends you might be aware of the increasingly close ties between Russia and China. Having studied History at the university, this trend interests me and I wanted to see first hand what was happening in these two countries. They are members of the Shanghai Cooperation Organization (SCO) a political, economic, and security organisation, BRICS (the acronym for an association of five major emerging national economies: Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa). They are cooperating on China's Belt and Road Initiative (BRI), and Russia's Eurasian Economic Union (EEU), building economic, political and military ties across the vast Eurasian continent. In other words, they are part of a global trend of changing power dynamics. The collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 resulted in unipolar Western dominance until the September 11, 2001 attack. With the West preoccupied by the ill-conceived and mismanaged  "War on Terror", Russia and China quietly developed into major powers, strong enough to compete for change to a more multilateral balance of global power. This, it seems to me, is the root cause of the global tensions and turmoil we have been experiencing since 9/11.  

Chinese tour groups headed for a Chinese restaurant
        I began to notice the large number of Chinese tour groups in Red Square and the Kremlin in Moscow. They were everywhere and highly visible, even more so in St. Petersburg. For example, there was a Chinese restaurant just around the corner from our apartment. Every day there were several tour buses of Chinese tourists coming to the restaurant and milling around outside either going in or coming out. These ubiquitous large and highly visible groups of Chinese tourists in Russia are an indication of the growing strength of this China/Russia alliance.

        This post concludes my impressions, thoughts and photos of our trip to Moscow and St. Petersburg, Russia in September 2017.


Thursday, March 8, 2018

Europe Summer 2017: Russia 9 – State Hermitage Museum

Main Gate looking out to Palace Square

     A visit to St. Petersburg would not be complete without seeing the Hermitage Museum which is housed in the Winter Palace. Along with Louvre in Paris, the Metropolitan in New York City and the British Museum in London, the Hermitage ranks as one of the the top four museums in the world. According to Forbes Magazine it ranks as #4:

interior garden - 
Hermitage entrance in background

#4 State Hermitage, Russia

State Hermitage Museum
Stretching over 700,000 square feet, The State Hermitage museum, located in St. Petersburg, is one of the largest museums in the world, second only to the Louvre in sheer size. Boasting around 4.1 million visitors, it is not only the main tourist attraction in St. Petersburg, but also the 8th most visited museum in the world. Established in 1764, the museum houses over three million pieces making it the largest display of paintings in the world. The museum exhibits pieces from world famous artists such as Picasso, Da Vinci and Rembrandt. - Forbes


the Grand Staircase

       The interior of the Hermitage—the Winter Palace—is a museum in and of itself apart from all the art objects housed within it. With over 700,000 sq.ft. It is a considerable challenge to wander about in and make sense of. Like any museum of its size, a dedicated museum goer could spend countless days and still not be able to absorb its contents. In a visit of only a day one has to be realistically selective about what he can see. Here, then, are just a few photos of some of the things that caught my attention—of the palace itself and some of the art objects in it.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
ROOMS


portrait gallery
Queen's Consort apartment
















Romanov Family Chapel 
















Throne Room

mosaic floor in Queen's Consort apartment




























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COLLECTION
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Clothing

Tsar Peter the Great
Full Dress Uniforms
Fancy Dress - owned by
Grand Duchess Xenia Alexandrovna




























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Artifacts


urn - for wine
clock 


























armored cavalrymen





















marble sculpture - Boy and Dolphin

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Paintings


Nude Woman
Leonardo da Vinci school
"Ecce Homo" -
Christ Crowned with Thorns
Pieter Paul Rubens






















The Virgin Embracing the Dead Christ
Gerard David


Kermess
Pieter Brueghel
The Garden of Earthly Delights
copy of Hieronymous Bosch














Fish Market

Saturday, March 3, 2018

Europe Summer 2017: Russia 8 – St. Petersburg 2


September 20

      We met Robin at the airport around 21:00 and took a taxi back to the apartment for a very reasonable 1500 Rubles. Had some hot chicken soup at the kitchen counter and chatted for a while. Robin was tired, of course, so we all called it a day.

September 21

PALACE SQUARE

Winter Palace and Neva River and . . . 
       This morning Robin surprised us by saying he, too, wanted to attend the opera, Cavaleria Rusticana, at the Saint Petersburg Opera this evening. Fortunately there were still tickets available and we walked to the theater to buy his ticket. Then, we all walked to the Palace Square for some more sightseeing of the Winter Palace and the Neva River area.

General Staff Building
Hermitage Museum










Winter Palace seen from the General Staff Building across Palace Square

KAZAN CATHEDRAL
CHURCH OF THE SAVIOR ON SPILLED BLOOD

Kazan Cathedral 
people lined up before the icon
of the Madonna and Child
       From Palace Square we walked along Nevsky Prospect to the Kazan Cathedral. Kazan is designed on the model of the Bellini Colonnade at the Vatican in Rome although not nearly as large and imposing. The cathedral in the seat of the Russian Orthodox Church in St. Petersburg. Inside, there was a long line of devout worshipers waiting the pray before and kiss a revered icon the the Madonna and Child.



Michailovsky Park

Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood
pillar covered in mosaic designs
       Later we walked through Michailovsky Park to the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood. This church was built to commemorate the site where Tsar Alexander II was fatally wounded by political nihilists in March 1881.The church was built between 1883 and 1907. The construction was funded by the Imperial Family. The interior of the church is covered, fantastically, by mosaic designs and  images on the walls, ceilings, domes and pillars—truly a breathtaking site to see. I have never seen so many mosaics in one place before. They must be seen to be appreciated.

mosaic dome interior with typical Christ figure 
detail of a figure mosaic












everything you see is made of mosaics

ST. PETERSBURG OPERA


      Stopped at a cellar cafe for something to drink and have a bite to eat before going to the St. Petersburg Theater-- vodka cocktails and pelmeni (a kind of Russian dumpling). 


St. Petersburg Opera Theater

the lobby of the St. Petersburg Theater
the small stage and auditorium
       The lobby decor of the small St. Petersburg Theater was very unusual—like something out of a Dracula film or the stalactites of some cave. The short opera by Pietro Mascagni, Caveleria Rusticana, is an intense verisimo drama about a love triangle in a rural village. The opening scene was played out partly on the stage and partly in the audience with the entrance of Lola, the femme fatale. The funny thing was, as Lola walked down the aisle, she happened to sit on the armrest of Robin's seat, practically in his lap. During the intermission I joked that “she was close enough to smell her perfume.” The small orchestra was more than competent, tightly led and performed. The cast were superb in terms of voice and acting in capturing and projecting the intensity of the drama. Especially intense and riveting was the domestic quarrel between Santuzza, the wronged and pregnant unmarried woman, and Turiddu, the unfaithful lover having an affair with a married woman—Lola, the said femme fatale above.


they guy behind Robin isn't Vladimir Putin
"She was close enough to
smell her perfume!"












"Yeah, right. She was sitting on the armrest, not my lap."

left to right - Mama Lucia, Turiddu, conductor, Santuzza













Lola, to Santuzza's right
      Apart from the drama of the opera, Cavaleria Rusticana is best known for its Intermezzo. 


       Robin liked the performance (his first one), and Road Buddy and I agreed it was one of the best Cavalerias we've seen thus far.