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Karluv Most |
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Karlstejn Castle |
The
14th Century Kingdom of Bohemia (as the Czech Republic was
then known) under Charles IV (Karel IV in Czech, Karl IV in German)
is remembered as a Golden Age in the present day Czech Republic.
Charles is revered as the “father of the country” and his
namesakes are everywhere, especially in Prague, and most especially
in the Karluv Most (Charles Bridge) across the Vltava (Moldau) River.
The largest of his namesakes, Karlštejn
Castle, however, is located some 30 km. outside
the city, about an hour's train ride, and thus an easy day trip.
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village of Karlstejn |
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you talkin' to me? |
We
took one and visited Karlštejn
(Karl's stone) recently leaving Prague around noon. You have to walk
about 2 km. from the station, mostly uphill, through the castle town
also called Karlštejn. The road, of course, is lined on both sides
with cafes, restaurants and souvenir shops offering all kinds of
merchandise from Nazi helmets to colorful wigs.
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c'mon make my day... |
Ignoring these (in
the sense of buying, not looking) we trekked up the hill towards the
castle entrance. The last kilometer or so is a considerable uphill
slope that prompted a rest and hydration break so we stopped at a
little cafe just outside the castle gate for some iced tea. Upon
leaving I spotted a stuffed animal in the road and wondered what the
hell it was doing there. It begged for a photo, so I took out my
(t)rusty camera and started framing a shot when I heard a low growl
and looked up and saw this terrier eyeing me. The shop lady said the
stuffed frog was its toy. So I apologized to the dog and snapped
his/her picture standing protectively over the frog and giving me a
not very friendly look.
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Bohemian crown |
Photos
will speak for the castle and surroundings, but I'll just add that
our tour guide, a very engaging and entertaining young guy, spoke
wistfully of the era of Karl IV while showing us the replica of his
really quite beautiful crown (photos not permitted, of course,
but...). He said that Czech people could only be proud when they
looked at Karl's crown which goes on display once in a blue moon. He
wished they could see it more often and, presumably, be filled with
patriotic fervor. When I thought about it I realized that these
people have lived subjected to outside powers, most recently under
the Nazis and the Soviet Union for a generation or two or three and
the notion of independence isn't yet absorbed into their national
spirit. But, if this young fellow is any example, they are going to
make it.
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marketing everywhere - nothing is sacred |
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entrance to main castle buildings |
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well tower |
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view from well tower |
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village viewed from the ramparts |
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late afternoon sun |
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self evident |
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infinity |
We were
pretty whacked out by the time we got back to Prague, so much so that
we forgot to change trains in the metro and had to back track when we
realized our mistake. By then it was sunset and we crossed to the
going-in-the-other-direction platform with the setting sun streaming
into the station. Day was done and we were more rather than less
ready to hang it up for the day, too.
4 comments:
A wonderful description of your day. Did you know that my kin were from Bohemia? Interesting, indeed. In fact, will be going to Louisiana in two weeks, where they landed; Baton Rouge, to start their lives here. Wonder what they were leaving…why.
They left before the Nazis but what was the 'flavor' towards Jews before, I wonder? Any sense?
It looked like a charming day, indeed.
Having trouble reading the type you chose. Maybe I should go back to bed, again?
oxox R
Oh, so you are "la boheme"? Seems like that period between the wars saw the growth of right wing fascist groups some of which ran on anti-Semitic party platforms. Probably your ancestors saw the familiar handwriting on the wall and left.
oh dear…I got it wrong. Bavaria. They both start with B's right?
R
Ya, but that's about the extent of the similarity. We went to Bavaria for a couple operas in Munich while we were in Prague (old Bohemia).
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