Noilly Prattle: Europe Summer 2017: Greece 7 – the Palace at Knossos

Tuesday, November 28, 2017

Europe Summer 2017: Greece 7 – the Palace at Knossos

August 26

Labyrinth of the Minotaur?

THE MYTH

Minotaur
labyrinth?
     In Greek Mythology the Palace at Knossos near Heraklion in Crete is often associated with the story of King Minos (who gave his name to the Minoan civilization) and the Labyrinth he built for the Minotaur. The Minotaur was the part man part bull offspring of the king's wife and a white bull. Minos had the Labyrinth built as a prison for the unnatural man-eating monster. The Knossos Palace had some 1300 rooms that were connected by passages and hallways that were built in varying directions that led to the disorientation and confusion experienced in a maze. It can thus be thought of as labyrinthine.





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THE BOAT

       We sailed from Santorini to Crete on a high speed ferry called SeaJets. Instead of propellers it looked to me that the SeaJet had something of a jet engine that pushed water through much the same way as a jet plane pushes air. At 40 knots per hour it took about two hours to arrive at the port of Heraklion. Our hotel, the Megaron was visible from the landing dock and an easy walk. The next day we took a local bus, conveniently located just in front of the hotel, to Knossos about five and a half kilometers away to explore the archaelogical site of the Knossos Palace.

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THE PALACE


scale model of the Knossos Palace
       We arrived by local bus at high noon with a prepaid combination ticket from the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion purchased the previous day, and so were able to avoid the long queue of people buying tickets and walked right in. There are many signs informing visitors about the various points of interest so a self-guided tour is not only possible, but more relaxed and easier to pace than having to follow the schedule of a tour guide. There are benches scattered here and there among shade trees and a breeze makes the walking comfortable enough, even in the strong sunlight of early afternoon.


first view of the palace from the West looking east


partial reconstruction with
with natural and modern materials
reconstruction with copies of frescoes
of men bearing various vessels
      The archeological site of the Minoan “Palace at Knossos” is something of an amalgam of Art and Archaeology. It is the result of 35 years of devoted excavation by Arthur Evans, a British archaeologist, and his somewhat imaginative recreation of parts of the palace in concrete. For this reason, Knossos cannot be listed in the annals of World Heritage sites. It is, nevertheless, an interesting experience for the layman visitor to the site who cannot visualize the structures that might have risen from the outlines of rock foundations without a few visual clues, a wall here, a column there, rising from those foundation.

A Lot of Bull

stones representing bull's horns
colorful reconstruction in North Gate area
with fresco of charging bulls


fresco depicting bull leaping - a popular sport at Knossos

The North Gate


characteristic reconstruction using
modern materials - with an "Art Deco" feel
as some critics have wryly noted
you must admit Evans' artistic color sense
       So, I accepted the concrete reconstructions in the spirit that I assume motivated Evans—to give the non-specialist layman an idea of how the the palace might have looked in its heyday, and to indulge his own artistic imagination. “Expert” opinions of the reconstruction work vary from “pure fantasy” to “probably a good general facsimile”. [Wikipedia] The truth or reality lies somewhere in between. The visitor is free to accept Evans' vision or create his own within the limits of his own imagination.


the North Gate area, the best known reconstructed section of the palace 
the Throne Room is visible on the upper left

The Throne Room

entrance to the King's throne room
second level of the throne room
a kind of skylight
      The site of Knossos Palace (c. 2000 to 1100 BC) that a visitor sees today represents the Late Minoan features of the palace when the site was definitively abandoned between c. 1380-1100 BC. The site was not as big or unmanageable as I had imagined. Two hours was quite adequate to cover the important parts of the site. It is well laid out with pathways for relatively easy access and comfortable walking around the site.

the throne room
Fresco Reproductions


Ladies in Blue
Prince of Lilies
Blue Monkey -- similar to
the blue monkey fresco found on Santorini







































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Miscellaneous


foundation outlines
upper level of "Lustral Basin" -
thought to have been
for purification purposes


















lower level of the "Lustral Basin"
pithoi - large storage jars


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