Fenghuang,
you might ask! Why Fenghuang?
A
little introduction to Fenghuang might be in order at this point:
|
old town Fenghuang (from Rainbow Bridge) |
|
hand drawn map of old town Fenghuang |
Fenghuang is one of several
well-preserved “ancient” (as the Chinese like to call them) towns
in China. The Chinese people tend to be rather proud of the
continuity and longevity of their over 4000 years of written history
and culture. Fenghuang, however, is not 4000 years old. It was built
in the early 18th Century A.D. making it only around 300
years old—a mere baby. Some consider Fenghuang, home to the Miao
ethnic minority, to be the most beautiful of the preserved old towns.
The town is situated in a mountain setting with a river running
through it. The wooden buildings of the old town are lined up along
both sides of the river making for some very picturesque views. The
scene is particularly stunning when the area is lit up at night.
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screen grab of translation app. |
Difficulties
with communication continued as a result of changes we wanted to make
in our booking. The hotel (Fenghuang Weiyanghao Boutique Inn) owner
himself was away on a trip to Beijing and his wife Yuan was managing
the place in his absence. She spoke no English and relied on her
smart phone translation app. to communicate with us. The translations were rudimentary at best. I needed to explain that we wanted to
shorten our stay from seven to five days. That required some fairly
complex language acrobatics. I downloaded a free translation app. for my Mac Air notebook computer and carried it down to the lobby. So Mrs. Yuan and I spent at least half an hour communicating by computer and smart phone until we
finally came to an understanding of sorts. It was all pretty exhausting.
|
pavilion, plum blossoms and old town |
After
something breakfast-like to eat at our Margarita restaurant (Soul
Cafe) we wound our way around the maze of narrow streets of the old town trying to find the Bank of China with our street map. We heard
the sound of percussion music and singing and stumbled upon a little
square high above and looking down on the old town and the river. It
was like a senior citizens center with many elderly people hanging
out, sitting in a pavilion; a small group were playing some gong and cymbal-like instruments and singing. First an old man had a microphone and was singing when we arrived on the scene; then a old women in a red coat got up, took the mike and did her
number. It was all really charming and heart warming. Some of the
folks came over to help us find the Bank of China on our map and
pointed us in the right direction.
|
rhythm section |
|
the sweet singer of Fenghuang |
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the lady in red belting the blues |
|
check out the beard |
|
senior citizens center |
|
cocktail hour at the Soul Cafe |
The
the terror of terrors happened at the bank. No, not a suicide bomber.
The ATM machine went out of order with our card still inside it.
Frantic, we tried to tell the bank staff what had happened. Finally a
young woman whipped out her smart phone translator and informed us
that the ATM had “swallowed” our card. Well, yes, we know that,
but what can we do about it? More fiddling with her translator and we
were informed that a technician was coming to attend to the ATM
machine and we should “wait”. After a not too agonizing interval the
technician showed up and our card was retrieved and delivered to the
teller. Further interminable checks and crosschecks by the teller to
verify my passport information finally got the card back into my
hands. Big sigh of relief!
Wandered
back to the hotel through the old town by a different route that just
“happened” to pass through the Soul Cafe just in time for another
much needed cocktail hour. Yess!
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