Japan’s
archeological history ended with the Kofun period c. 538 CE. The
oldest surviving artifacts of Japan’s first historical (Asuka)
period (538—710 CE) can be found in Nara area Buddhist temples. On
the last two days of our getaway trip we visited three of the oldest
temples in Japan: Yakushi-ji (697 CE), Horyu-ji (607 CE) and
Asuka-dera (596 CE) in Nara Prefecture.
The
historical beginnings of non-mythical Japanese history can be attributed to the
introduction of the Chinese characters known as kanji in Japan. The
first Chinese characters probably arrived in Japan on official seals
and as decoration on coins, mirrors and such practical items early in
the Common Era (CE) as early as 57 AD. The characters were not
understood, however, until the 5th Century when scholars
were sent from the Korean Peninsula to introduce Buddhism and writing
to Japan.
Our
original plan was to drive from Toba City, making a brief stop at
Meoto Iwa, to Asuka-dera (25 km. south of Nara City)—about a 3-hour
drive. However, we missed an important route turn off and, as the
drive seemed to be dragging on, we realized that we had screwed up
and were in the wrong [northern] suburbs of Nara City. After stopping
and asking directions a couple times we discovered that we weren’t
far from Yakushi-ji, the temple we had planned to visit last the
following day. Thus, we decided on a change of plans. We would visit
Yakushi-ji and Horyu-ji that day, drive south and find our Super
Hotel, visit Asuka-dera the next morning and then drive back to
Okayama from there.
MEOTO IWA
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poster of the replacing
of the ropes ceremonies |
Meoto Iwa (夫婦岩), meaning “the rocks of the bound lovers” (no SM intended), are two
rocks in Ise Bay adjacent to the Futami Okitama Shrine (二見興玉神社)
not far from the Grand Shrine of Ise. These rocks represent the
progenitor god and goddess Izanami and Izanagi in Japanese creation
mythology. They celebrate the conjugal union of man and woman in Shinto
belief. The rocks are bound by a heavy rope made of rice straw that
weighs more than a ton. Due to the wear and tear of the elements the
rope is replaced a few times a year in a special ceremony. We made a
brief visit to Meoto Iwa on our way to Nara. In a way going from the shrine at Meoto Iwa to the temples in Nara we traveled from Japan’s
mythological past to its early historical present.
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| bound rocks of Izanami and Izanagi |
YAKUSHI-JI
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unusual 5-step pagoda
with two intermediate
smaller and indented |
 |
| inner temple precinct showing base of pagoda |
Yakushi-ji (薬師寺)was
originally planned in 680 by the Emperor Temmu to pray for the
recovery of his consort from a serious illness. Perhaps the gods
extracted an eye for an eye because she recovered but he died. She
then became the Empress Jito and commissioned the construction of the
temple which was dedicated in 697. It was common for the Japanese
nobility of the early Buddhist period to build temples as acts of
devotion or seeking favors. The temple has been moved and destroyed
several times over the centuries. Since much work has been done to
restore this temple you get a good impression of what these colorful
temples originally looked like.
 |
main hall housing the original Buddha
dedicated by the Empress Jito |
 |
the Buddha flanked by the
gods of the sun and moon inside
the main hall on the left |
 |
| recently built hall for meetings, conferences, etc. -- behind the main hall and sparkling in vermilion and white |
HORYU-JI
 |
| 5-step pagoda at Horyu-ji |
The
full name of this temple, Horyu Gakumon-ji (法隆学問寺),
means “Learning Temple of the Flourishing Law”—pretty
impressive title, I’d say. The 5-step pagoda of Horyu-ji is one of
the oldest surviving wooden buildings in the world. Many of the
temple buildings are probably just as old—and look it.
 |
| * the Guze Kannon |
The temple
complex is huge and my bum hip was giving me trouble since walking
around two large temples was pretty tiring and, for my hip, a bit
abusive. Nevertheless, I soldiered on and visited what to Road Buddy
was the main reason of the visit to Horyu-ji , the Guze Kannon.
 |
* the Guze Kannon's
spiked head and halo |
This
statue of the Buddhist deity Kannon (a sort of Christ-like savior
figure) is said to be cursed because its halo is spiked to the back
of the head by a very large nail. (The halos [or auras] on Buddhist statues are
usually set on top of a pole behind the statue and not physically
attached.) The Guze Kannon is thought to be a likeness of the revered
Prince Shotoku whose son was forced to commit suicide thus ending the
Shotoku imperial line. The spike in the head is thought to be a kind
of voodoo effort to calm Shotoku’s spirit. Beats hell out of me how
a spike in the head is expected to “calm” a spirit. The statue,
usually hidden from the public except for brief periods in the spring
and fall, is housed in the oldest octagonal building in Japan, which
looks it. In fact, and maybe it’s because my bad hip was grousing
me, the overall look of Horyu-ji is dilapidated.
 |
| the oldest octagonal building that houses the Guze Kannon |
 |
detail showing some of the original color
and the effects of time on the woodwork |
ASUKA-DERA
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| main gate of Asuka-dera |
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| the Great Buddha, the oldest statue of Buddha in Japan, 609 CE |
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| the countryside around Asuka-dera |
Asuka-dera (飛鳥寺)
is one of the oldest (if not the
oldest) temples in Japan c. 588 CE. Unlike the large complex of
Yakushi-ji and the even larger complex of Horyu-ji, embedded in
otherwise busy commercial areas, Asuka-dera is small and surrounded
by farmland in an obscure, difficult to find location. Once you find
it, being small, it is easy to take in as a whole and pleasant to
walk around in without exertion. The most impressive thing at
Asuka-dera is a great (three meters [over 15 feet] high) bronze
statue of a seated Buddha. Made in 609 CE it is the oldest statue of
Buddha in Japan. The temple buildings themselves have been rebuilt
several times; the present buildings were rebuilt in the Edo Period
in 1632 and 1826—not as fresh looking as Yakushi-ji, but not as
dilapidated as Horyu-ji either.
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small and easy to walk around in the main compound of Asuka-dera
- the Great Buddha is housed in the central building |
BACK HOME AGAIN
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| just in time for a couple of Martinis |
*Note: Guze Kannon photos from the Internet
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